One of the main draws to the Ninh Binh region are boat tours in the Trang An Scenic Area. An UNESCO world heritage site, the Trang An landscape complex includes both the areas of Trang An and Tam Coc.
Trang An & Tam Coc
Boat tours to both these areas row you past lush rice fields, towering limestone cliffs and through long dark caves. The number of caves however and length of the overall boat ride differs between the two locations. Tam Coc on the Ngo Dong River is a shorter experience and includes three caves (the name tam coc apparently means three caves). The Trang An boat tour is longer and offers different options, with more caves, and also the choice to stop for temple visits along the Trang An River.
I’d read a lot of negative reviews about Tam Coc, how people felt harassed by boats selling drinks or hassled for tips. I’d read Trang An was a little more expensive, but a better overall experience. So, I chose to tour the Trang An River and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Our boat was never hassled or pressured at any time for anything. It never felt overly crowded either. There were certainly other boats behind and in front of us, but all the boats seemed to keep some distance from one another.
While the boat tours may be the main draw to Ninh Binh I explored a few other places that I enjoyed even more. The first of these was Bich Dong Pagoda.
Bich Dong Pagoda
Built into the side of Ngu Nhac Mountain, this place was beautiful and fun to explore. A small pathway goes up and through part of a cave to three separate tiers with Buddhist temples nestled against the cliffs. It is very scenic and peaceful.
Nui Ngoa Long (Lying Dragon Mountain) also called Hang Mua
Climb the steps up Mua Mountain and enjoy the views. The climb up this mountain consists mostly of steps carved into the rock. Some of the steps up are steep, almost as high as my knees in a few parts. It doesn’t take too long to get to the top, maybe thirty minutes depending on how often you stop. There are actually a couple different view points to admire. A fork in the steps leads to two separate “twin” pinnacles. There is one viewing platform overlooking the Ngo Dong river, you can just make out the Tam Coc row boats far below as they disappear into one of the caves. At the top of one pinnacle there is a small pavilion which offers some shade should you need it, and 360 degree views. There is a small entrance fee to climb the steps up the mountain.
Countryside Villages
My favorite part of the Ninh Binh region were the small everyday houses nestled against karst cliffs with farms and little duck ponds made of stone and cement. It seemed like every other house had its own duck raising pond and then there were the water buffalo who were herded through the tiny streets in the morning and evening each day. You can bike past these rural houses or stay in one of the many guesthouses available throughout the Trang An countryside.
Helpful Clarifications
The names for these places can get confusing as they often refer to more than one location. For example…
-Ninh Binh is the name for this region, or province, but you’ll often hear people call it a city as well, because there used to be a city called Ninh Binh. It was actually the capital of the province, but in Jan 2025 Ninh Binh city merged with Hoa Lu and the name of the city and capital of Ninh Binh province is now called Hoa Lu. This is where the train station is located but you probably don’t want to stay in the city. It’s rather industrial and there are better places to stay.
-Tam Coc is the name used when talking about boat tours on the Ngo Dong River but it is also the name of a small town in the same vicinity. The small town of Tam Coc is a popular choice when deciding where to stay. You’ll be within easy walking distance of several restaurants.
-Trang An is both the name of a river and boat tours on that river, as well as, the Trang An Landscape UNESCO world heritage site. (Which technically and confusingly also includes Tam Coc and Bich Dong… lol. ) Trang An is also the name used to refer to the rural countryside in that vicinity. (Just North of Tam Coc). Guesthouses in the countryside of the Trang An Landscape are also a great option when choosing where to stay. With villages nestled against limestone karst outcrops the rural countryside is beautiful. However the availability of restaurants within close proximity can be limited without transportation. Some guesthouses provide food, others might not.
If you have more time than I did you might also want to explore the ancient capital of Hoa Lu. The restored ancient capital is just north of the Trang An area. This was the capital of the Dai Co Viet kingdom during the Dinh and Le dynasties around 968 to 1009. When the Ly dynasty took over in 1010 they transferred the capital to what is now Hanoi. All of this was well before the Nguyen dynasty took over, moved the capital to Hue and actually changed the name of the kingdom to Viet Nam.
